See how easy it is to set up the Kreg Rip Cut on your circular saw. And get tips for making accurate cuts with it.
See it All
Below you will find:
- Tools list
- Video tutorial
- Step-by-step written tutorial with snapshots
See all of the tools you’ll need for this tutorial
See how to easily put the Kreg Rip Cut system together and tips for accurate cuts.
Transcript highlights and images are below the video too!
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I love the Kreg Rip Cut for cutting plywood.
It is so easy to set up too.
Parts of the Kreg Rip Cut
There are 3 main components:
The Sled is what you will attach your saw to. It has a spacer for the lip of your saw foot.
The Guide runs along the edge of the wood you will be cutting.
The Rail attaches to the Guide and Saw and has a ruler for setting your cut measurement.
You’ll want to have your circular saw on hand.
Ensure your saw is unplugged or has the battery out!!
You may also want a couple of 2x4s to prop up your saw so the blade guard does not touch your bench.
And the only tool you must have is a Phillips head screwdriver.
You may also need a flat head screwdriver.
Check Front of Saw’s Foot
The very front of your circular saw’s foot, or base plate, will either be:
- Curved up
Check your saw’s lip and adjust the sled’s spacer as detailed next.
The spacer in the sled can be set for angled or flat to match the saw’s lip.
Remove it with a flathead screw driver, if needed.
If your saw has a raised lip – place the teeth up, with the tall side toward the front of the sled.
If your saw has a flat lip – place the teeth of the spacer face down, into the grooves.
3 Screws to Adjust
The nuts on the back are not captured, so be careful not to take the screws all the way out.
Saw Foot Block
Loosen the screw for the saw foot block.
Leave it a little snug, as it will be the first one you’ll want to tighten when you attach your saw to the sled.
You’ll use this block as a reference later when you want to reattach your saw to the sled so that it will be perfectly aligned again.
Place Saw on Sled
Set your saw on the sled for either left or right hand use.
Mine is shown above set for right hand use.
Set it as close to the outside edge as possible.
Move the blade guard up and down and ensure it can still move freely and is not rubbing in any way.
A pinched guard is a safety issue.
You’ll actually need to do this adjustment with the saw propped up on blocks or hanging off the edge of your bench.
Don’t worry about trying to get it extra close to the edge of the guide.
You’ll zero out the setup for accuracy when we attach the rail later.
Tighten the stop block against the opposite edge of the saw foot.
Your saw’s foot should now be square against the top of the sled and against the foot.
Lock Saw Onto Sled
Now you’re ready to lock the saw onto the sled.
Loosen the swivel screws just enough so that you can lift up a little and spin them around, toward the saw’s foot plate.
You may also need to loosen the set screws just a bit too, as the point of them is in a divot on the sled.
Spin the swivels around until the set screws are over the saw’s foot plate.
Try not to position them over the lip if it is curved up.
If you can’t get them to line up well, take the swivels out and place into the alternate holes, which are just to the interior on the sled of where the swivels are mounted by default.
Tighten the set screw until the point is just touching the foot.
Then tighten down the swivel first, to keep it level.
Then tighten the set screw until it just starts to raise the swivel.
Do not overtighten the set screw!
You just need the point to bite into the saw’s foot plate, and you don’t want to put too much pressure on the swivel.
Once both sides are done, try to pull your saw out of the sled. It should not move.
Attach Guide to Rail
Your guide should have two screws under tape. Remove them.
Set up your rail on the guide for either left or right hand operation.
Mine is shown above for right hand.
This means the guid will be on the left and the saw will be on the right.
The guide has 2 pegs to ensure you set the rail square to it.
Use the other 2 holes to screw the rail to the guide.
Attach Sled to Rail
I think this is the hardest part of the whole setup.
I turned my saw on it’s side and inserted the rail into the slot from the top.
You may need to wiggle the gray lock on the top, as the bottom part of that is what locks the rail into place.
Align Sled to Guide
Push your saw as far over toward the guide as it will go.
Then back it off just a wee bit so that the blade guard can move freely.
Then flip the gray lock on the top until the sled is locked into place.
Test your guard again!!
After locking, be sure to check that your blade guard can still move freely.
A pinched guard is a safety issue.
Zero the Cursor
Now you’re ready to zero out the cursor for accurate cuts.
Move the red line on the cursor to the first black line on the rail.
Here’s a closeup of that first black line on the rail and how to move the cursor.
Now the outside edge of your blade is aligned with that cursor.
And you’re ready to make a test cut.
Do not cut anything less than 1” wide!
When cutting a narrow strip, holding the guide by the cut out handle could make you pinch the cut material to the blade.
Consider holding it up by the rail, which is ahead of the blade.
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