Get all the details and dimensions on how I built this mitre saw station. It’s an easy DIY weekend project.
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It’s all about my mitre saw station build
Why I Chose This Build Plan
I looked at all kinds of mitre saw station build plans before I settled on this one.
And I learned a LOT from using a temporary setup.
It helped me determine the final dimensions that would work best for what I cut the most.
<<<<< SEE: Tips for Building
for details on how working with a temporary setup helped me choose the dimensions, plus why I built a support shelf on a solid top.
Build the Legs
Instead of cutting notches in 4×4 posts, I chose to twin a couple of 2x4s for my legs.
It seemed like an easier way to do it.
In some ways it was, in other ways not.
<<<<< SEE: Easy 2×4 Workbench Legs for Mitre Saw Station for details on how I built these bench legs and what I would do differently next time.
You’ll also want to keep your wheel height in mind when determining the length of leg that works best for you.
See the Wheels section below for more.
Build the Frame Rails
This type of frame goes together so fast!!
It’s just straight boards cut to your desired length mounted on two of the legs to create the apron.
That makes it easy to square up too!
<<<<< SEE: Easy Bench Frame Build for details and the clever way I dealt with one of the long rails bowing out.
Build the Frame Stretchers
Stand the rails up, side-by-side, with the aprons toward the outside.
A pole support in the shop helped keep one of them secure, and saw horses kept the other one in place until I could get the first stretcher screwed in.
Pocket holes and my Kreg right-angle clamp made it easy to hold the supports in place while I screwed them together.
That also made it super easy to attach the bottom stretchers, as the frame was already ridged.
SEE: Easy Bench Frame Build again for details on using that right-angle clamp.
Flip the Frame
I flipped the frame over to install the top stretchers.
That allowed them to sit squarely on the floor and made it easy to ensure I had a flat surface across the entire top.
And with the bottom of the legs up, it made it easy to install the wheels too.
Attach the Wheels
Making pocket holes in the bench legs to attach the plywood rectangles for the wheels worked fine and kept me from screwing into the end grain of the legs, which is a super weak way to mount them.
I did hit those pocket hole screws on one each mounting hole of two of the wheels, though, mainly because I just winged the placement of the pocket holes and the wheel mounts. A little more careful planning would have prevented that.
But, it still left three screws in on those two wheels, and that’s plenty sturdy.
Be sure to see the Easy Bench Frame Build again for more details.
I am so glad I can roll this bench around!
I could have used 2” wheels, as they could take the weight of the bench easily. And your wheel size impacts your overall height dimension too, so keep that in mind when building your legs.
And next time I’ll get the gray wheels instead of the black rubber ones, as they leave skid marks on the floor that are not easily removed.
NOTE: The only time I created those marks was while I had the wheels locked during the build.
Attach the Top
I cut my top to be flush in the back and then leave a 2” overhang on the other 3 sides.
That way I would have a lip for clamps, as I plan to use this bench for my Kreg pocket hole making station too, and a 2” lip is perfect for the Kreg face clamp, as well as just about any other clamp I might want to use.
You’ll want to measure your top to have as much lip as you want, or make it flush with the aprons.
NOTE: Due to the end stretchers being on the inside of the legs, you’ll naturally have a lip on each end, even when you cut the top to be flush. But, it will be 4″ tall, due to the 2×4 and plywood top thickness.
Attach the Bottom
One of the reasons I love this build plan is that it’s so easy to cut plywood for the bottom shelf.
There’s no notching required for the legs.
It’s just a couple of easy, square cuts.
SEE: How to Safely Cut Plywood on the Floor for a way that makes it super easy for me to handle plywood alone and stay safe.
Build the Support Shelf
Below are the dimensions needed to match my mitre saw deck height and approximate length on each side.
You’ll want to adjust to match your mitre saw deck and how much length you have on each side of it.
NOTE: This is an idea for the right side support shelf with the inset upright on the end. I had to inset the upright on the left, and cut the material support shelf at an angle to accommodate the mitre saw arm.
Be sure to see the tips video below for details and adjust your shelves as required.
It is critically important that the material support shelf be dead level with the mitre saw table bed.
Plus, it’s critically important that the back support by mounted 1/8” back and perfectly straight.
And if you have a foot to hold the material, you’ll want to make a notch for that too.
I forgot to cut my notch before I mounted the back board.
I just couldn’t get in there with my scroll saw. So I had to cut it with a reciprocating saw, hence the jagged edge.
<<<<< SEE: Easy DIY Mitre Saw Station Support Shelf for details on how I took the measurements and where I put the pocket holes for mounting.
Plus, you’ll see tips for holding everything in place if it’s just you and you don’t have another set of hands.
I love having these cubby holes to hold the tools I use the most at this mitre saw station!!!
My tape measure, marking pencil, and stop blocks are super handy on the right.
My face shield is hanging over my stop block clamp for now. I’ll be installing a hook for it soon.
And all of my Kreg jigs and screws are handy on the left.
This is a BIG reason why I included overhang on my top and didn’t take the material support shelf out to the edges of the top.
I wanted room to clamp my Kreg jig and make pockets holes right here where I’m cutting the wood.
I might put hooks on the front apron for my Kreg clamps. Or, I may make a storage bin to sit on the bottom shelf for them.
Setting the supports back from the front edge also helps me easily see my tools when I’m bellied up to the saw too.
One advantage of making this mitre saw station 6 feet long is that I can easily store 2x4s and other long boards on the bottom shelf.
It would be super easy to add some stop blocks so that shorter scrap wood can’t fall out when I move the station around, too.
Build Your Own Mitre Saw Station
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